The average routine recommended by beauty influencers involves 7–12 products applied in sequence: cleanser, toner, essence, serum, ampoule, eye cream, moisturizer, SPF — and that is just the morning. The logic sounds reasonable: each product targets a different concern. The biology tells a different story.
Research
Skincare Science6 min read
The Case Against a 10-Step Skincare Routine
More products does not mean better skin. Layering multiple actives can disrupt the barrier faster than it repairs, creating the very problems the routine is supposed to solve. Here’s the science behind why simpler routines often outperform complex ones.
February 20, 2026
Key Takeaways
More products does not mean better skin. Layering multiple actives can disrupt the barrier faster than it repairs, creating the very problems the routine is supposed to solve. Here’s the science behind why simpler routines often outperform complex ones.
The barrier disruption problem
Every product you apply interacts with the stratum corneum. Surfactants dissolve lipids. Penetration enhancers alter barrier structure. Active ingredients at high concentrations stress the repair mechanisms. Applied individually with recovery time, this is manageable. Applied in rapid succession across a multi-step routine, the cumulative disruption compounds.
“Layering multiple products containing different surfactants, penetration enhancers, and actives challenges the barrier 7–12 times in sequence. The cumulative effect is often worse than any single product alone.”
The paradox: increased TEWL, sensitization, and dryness from barrier disruption drives people to add more products. The condition that the routine creates becomes the condition the routine tries to solve.
What actually matters
Research consistently points to a few fundamentals: gentle cleansing that preserves the barrier, effective moisturization that supports the lipid matrix, sun protection, and — if you choose — active ingredients at evidence-based concentrations in a compatible vehicle. A well-formulated product with the right actives can replace an entire shelf.
Tip
Before adding a new product: what does this do that my current routine doesn’t? If you can’t answer specifically, you probably don’t need it.
The dose-response issue
Product stacking is also a dose problem. If you apply a retinol serum, a vitamin C serum, and an AHA toner in the same routine, the total active load may exceed your skin’s tolerance even though each product individually is well-tolerated. Your barrier has a finite capacity for challenge and repair within a given time window.
References
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